Bourbon Cask "Rinse" Issue
It's not just the sherry casks that are losing quality. What is happening behind the scenes of the aging casks?
1. Introduction
In recent years, it has been pointed out that the “rinsing process” used on bourbon casks has an unexpected effect on the maturation of Scotch whisky.
Barrels are essential for whiskey aging. Until now, the main topics of conversation have been the use history of sherry casks and whether they can be refilled, but in recent years, attention has been focused on the "rinsing" process for bourbon casks . This "rinsing" process involves pouring water into the casks after the bourbon has been removed to lightly rinse them. In recent years, many American distilleries have adopted this process to reduce costs and recover alcohol, and these casks are widely distributed around the world, including in the Scotch industry.
However, some have pointed out that this rinsing process brings about unexpected changes in the maturation results of single malt , and the fact is that there is a great deal of debate both inside and outside the industry.
2. What is Bourbon Barrel Rinse?
Rinsing is the process of pouring water into empty barrels to extract the residual whiskey inside, and is used in the United States primarily for its cost-effectiveness.
Typically, bourbon distilleries use a small amount of water to extract the remaining whiskey from emptied barrels after aging. This liquid is reused for things like proof adjustments, making it an efficient process for the distillery. According to Heaven Hill, the rinse process allows them to recover roughly 2 gallons (7.5L) of whiskey per barrel.
The problem is that these "water-rinsed casks" are being distributed to distilleries in other countries, such as Scotland, without any information. Even if they look like the same "first-fill bourbon casks" at first glance, some say that the maturation results will be different depending on whether they have been rinsed, making it difficult to predict or design at the time of brewing.
3. Influence on aging results: Demonstrated changes
- Rinsed barrels tend to extract less of the vanilla and sweetness from bourbon, and the difference in aging results has been proven.
Compass Box founder John Glaser and former Macallan blender Dhaval Gandhi have been paying attention to this phenomenon since 2013, experimenting with the differences in ageing in rinsed and unrinsed bourbon barrels .
The results were clear:
- The sweetness of the scent varies
- There are differences in the amount of vanillin and other wood components extracted.
- The colours also appear differently
All of these differences are due to differences in the "influence of the barrel" during the aging process, and it has been reported that if you were expecting the strength that is unique to first-fill whiskeys, you may find the aging to be "more gentle than expected."
4. The scale and transparency gap
Smaller distilleries are more susceptible to the effects of rinsed barrels, and a lack of disclosure of information is also an issue.
Large distilleries and blenders are able to blend a variety of barrels to balance the final product, but for smaller businesses, a single barrel can have a greater impact on the overall product , so the inclusion of rinsed barrels can have a direct impact on quality control.
Furthermore, the current barrel supply route does not require the disclosure of information such as "whether a barrel has been rinsed or not," meaning that many Scotch makers are forced to begin the ageing process blindfolded.
5. How to deal with change: Blenders' response
Some blenders are already exploring ways to design around the properties of rinse kegs or complement them with other keg strategies.
Compass Box has already taken steps to address this issue, developing a proprietary strategy to complement the flavors of bourbon barrels , including custom-crafting new casks in the United States and using them for extended maturation after a year of aging in Scotland.
In addition, a new product called "Orchard House" will be released in 2021, which takes advantage of the "more spirit-driven flavor" achieved by rinsing barrels. The challenge of showing a new direction to replace the heavy oak flavor of the past has also begun.
6. How should we interpret the rinse barrel issue?
- Bourbon cask aging in the old bottle era may have benefited from barrel treatment that differed from that used today, and we believe that this is where the value lies.
That is why whiskey made using old methods, especially old bottles made before the widespread use of rinsing, has a charm of aging that is difficult to reproduce in modern times. It goes beyond being just "old whiskey" and is a valuable item that allows you to enjoy the "flavor that could only be produced in that era."
We do not view this issue as a matter of "good" or "evil" or "right or wrong," but rather as a situation in which the information necessary for aging design remains unclear, making it easy for flavors to vary.
In addition, bourbon cask-aged products in old bottles were produced in an era before the introduction of rinsing techniques, and may retain flavor characteristics that are difficult to obtain in modern times. With this background in mind, we would like to carefully convey the differences and values of the environments that are embedded in present and past bottles .
7. Conclusion
We are living in an era where invisible changes such as "how barrels are processed" are greatly affecting the taste and value of whiskey.
The "treatment method" of casks is by no means an issue that only applies to sherry casks. Even in bourbon casks, the nuances of flavor and the management methods of casks have changed over time, which is one of the reasons that creates the diversity of modern whiskey.
We believe that the depth of whisky lies in discovering these "invisible aspects."